Monday, August 16, 2010

Morro, oh no no no

I thought it was important to provide an update.  And to pose a question.  First the question:  What in the hell does everyone like about Morro de Sao Paulo?  Is it the overcrowded beaches full of obnoxious tourists from all the world over?  Is it is smell of sewage wafting by with every gust of wind?  Is it the mediocre view from the beach?  Is it the leering men who live there and seem to act entitled to sleep with every moderately attractive female tourist that walks by? Is it the annoying guys at the dock who follow you, insisting that they'lll carry your bag for just 6 reals even though you only have a backpack and have explained three times that you don't need any help?  Is it the overpriced and not-so-great-tasting meals being hawked at every restaurant?  Seriously -- what is it?

I arrived there Friday afternoon with the intention of staying for five days and to finish off this solo part of my trip enjoying the wonders of Morro as described to me by practically everyeon who has ever been there.  Five minutes after I arrived, I knew I wanted to leave as soon as possible.  Granted, I was coming from paradise.  I had stayed in that paradise for five days longer than I had planned because I fell in love with it.  I developed an intense friendhsip with someone who I didn't want to leave.  And I made a bunch of other friends in the capoeira group there without ever even training once. So, the bar was set pretty high for any other place I'd visit on this trip. But based on what everyone had told me about Morro, I was sure I'd like it.  I think some places are best enjoyed alone and with little money (like my paradise) and other places are best enjoyed with a group friends and ample pocket change (Like Morro).

So, I decided I had two options: 1. Go on to Salvador  2.  Return to my paradise

Option 1. Before starting the solo part of my trip in Brazil, every person I spoke with about Salvador warned me about safety issues.  "Always keep an eye on your purse whe you are in a restaurant," "Don't go to the beach with anything if you plan to swim...someone will swipe your bag while you're in the water," "Don't trust the men there -- they are safados and will woo you and then try to take your stuff."   So, I was already wondering how I'd be relaxed in a place that sounded as or more dangerous than the Bronx in the 80s. I live in a city that requires me to constantly be on alert, paying attention to any possibility of trouble....I didn't want to go on vacation to experience the same level of looming stress.  And these warnings were not based on rumor or hearsay: Last year, someone tried the steal the camera out of my friend's hands!  This year, a capoeira mestres wallet was stolen off his person!  Add to this the fact that Salvador is, after all, a city full of tourists,  I decided that if I chose to go to Salvador, the last days of my solo vacation would require more energy and attention to my personal safety than I cared to give.

Option 2. Return to my paradise.  Return to deserted, breathtaking beaches.  Return to cheap, huge plates of shrimp and fish.  Return to the bakery that knows my breakfast order.  Return to the beachside Barraca where I get aqua de coco every day and chat with the cutie who runs it.  Return to nighttime walks on the beach and people to speak with and forro dancing and relaxation and sun and surf and waves and sand.


Now the update:  Can you guess which I chose? 

2 comments:

  1. Aaaah! Usually I'm pretty good at not coveting the lives of others, but my goodness...

    You deserve it! Best wishes to you in paradise!

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