Keys

I've been back in New York for just over a week.  It feels weird. I know I love living here; I know that this is where I want to live for the rest of my life.  It's just that, at the moment, I'm having a bit of trouble remembering WHY. 

A good friend is encouraging me to enjoy every minute of this strange feeling of feeling not at home at home.  And I like that idea, so that's what I'm planning to do. 

I have lots of friends who do lots of long-term traveling, with some of them living abroad for years on end, so what I'm experiencing now is probably old news to them.  But this summer was the first time I was out of the U.S. for more than a month, and that second month really did a number on my ability to come back without noticing a strange thing or two about my life here. I'm trying to figure out how to explain it, so until I'm fully adjusted, I'm going to try to figure it out here. 

When I got back last week, my mom and nephew met me at my apartment to hand over my keys.  I was fresh from 25 hours of traveling with just about three hours of sleep thrown in despite two sleeping "aids," so I was not on point. My mom handed me my keys, a jangling bundle of no less than 13 keys and I thought, and then said,  "There must be some mistake, all of these keys can't possibly be mine."  But they were mine alright, and I have spent many years carrying all of these keys with me every day.  For the past two months, I wore a single key on a piece of berimbau cord around my neck, which is apparently enough time to become accustomed to only wearing a single key on a cord around one's neck.  But then there I was, back at my home, which still didn't feel quite like my home yet, with a bundle of keys (to my apartment, my mom's apartment, my sister's apartment, my friend's office, my mailbox, my bike lock....) that also didn't feel like mine.

My first day back, I carried those key around as I ran errands around Brooklyn.  I'll state the obvious by saying that they represent my life here -- and that I wasn't quite ready to carry that life around, all jingling and silver in my handbag.  My second day back, I separated the keys into smaller bundles and now leave what I don't need for the day at home.  Seems simple enough, and it was simple enough.  With fewer keys, my return to the speed of daily life here slowed down a bit -- just enough for me to handle it.

Don't get me wrong -- I'm glad to be back.  But it is weird. 

Winding down

I'm in my last week of my Brazilian vacation. I'm so glad I extended trip my trip by two weeks -- it would have been too rushed to leave on the 25th as previously planned. So much has happened since I've been here, and I've learned a lot of things about myself, Brazilian culture and life.

Here's a quick list of what comes to mind when I think of all I've learned:
* How to make and fly a kite, Rio de Janeiro style
* How to train macaco in a way that makes sense to my body
* How to actually do a macaco paulista
* How to do mei lua de compasso de raizes
* How to drive a motorcycle (don't worry mom, it was just in a parking lot)
* How to jump any bike over any curb
* How to make firm plans with a Brazilian man by acting as if you aren't actually making a firm plan
* How to call a waiter over to the table in that sort of rude, but typical and normal Brazilian way, by calling out "Oi -- moco" or "Amigao" while waving him over with your hand
* How to listen to and politely decline a way-too-soon marriage proposal from a smitten admirer
* How to wear a teeny bikini with grace and attitude
* How to apply the perfect combination of sunblock and bronzer
* How to play safely, strongly and com muito divertido and respect in a street roda
* How to relax deeply for extended periods of time without feeling guilty
* How to work a little while playing a lot
* How to take capoeira less seriously (which oddly enough results in begin a better capoeirista)

I am ready to come home (I really miss my mom, sister, nephew and bed), but am still sad to leave.  Luckily, I've already learned how to maintain strong long distance friendships, so I know that I won't actually be leaving anything or anyone behind here. But for now, there are still a few more days to fill with friends and sunshine -- so off I go!

NOT back in New York

So, if anyone remembers when I said I'd be back, you'd be expecting to see me somewhere in New York right now.  I was supposed to arrive on Thursday and would probably be finishing capoeira class in the park right about now.  But instead, I'm still in Brazil!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I am lucky enough to teach a few online classes as well as in-person classes.  And I am lucky enough that the online classes started last week, but the in-person classes don't start until mid-September.  So, a few weeks ago, I decided to change my return flight to stay here longer -- two weeks longer to be exact.  I'll return to NY on September 9th. 

In the meantime, I am back to my normal Brasilia routine.  Capoeira classes all over the city, street rodas every other Saturday, visiting with old friends and making new ones, enjoying good music, eating good healthy food, working on my online classes in the morning, going to the park or agua mineral or a waterfall in the afternoon, and -- most of all -- laughing A LOT.  There is something very light about the energy in Nagi's house, and whether I'm passing the day with him or his roomie Dudu or his brother Jad, we are always laughing.  

Yesterday we went took a trip to a waterfall called Poco Azul. 

There are actually a series of waterfalls here and we didn't get to see them all. But we did enjoy two of them.  The first was beautiful: a fall cascading about 15 feet with a bunch of areas to jump into the deep pool below (I didn't jump because I'm wimpy like that, but I enjoyed watching everyone else).

We passed most of the day there. Then we took a hike to the fall below.  As we approached, I had to literally stop in my tracks because I was completely overwhelmed by the beauty and energy of the place.   I couldn't move for a few minutes and, when I did, I teared up.  I have never seen a place so amazing. The falls were powerful -- cascading from about 100 feet above, crashing onto a small rock shelf before cascaing again into a very shallow pool.  I stood under the falls to enjoy a lovely massage and then turned to face the rock.  I placed my hands on the rockface while the falls fell on my head and couldn't move for quite a while, thinking of the power of water and gravity.  I don't have a regular prayer practice beyond taking moments every day to express thanks for everything I have and am capable of doing in my life, but I was praying there -- most definitely.  As I write this, I have been trying to pull up words to describe what I was feeling there, but I don't think I can.  "Humbled" is one I can really connect with.  "Grateful" is another.

After a long time under the falls, I came out and swam in the other, deeper pool below a smaller fall to the side.  Saw some beer cans perched on a rock nearby, so I climbed up to get them and take them with us along with some other trash we found.  Soon it was almost sunset, so we climbed back up and headed home.
I was awestruck by the whole place.

That night, I went to Dudu's capoeira class where we trained a very beautiful combination.  The roda was lively and I played as much as I could in between watching his students play beautiful, powerful games. Afterwards, Cachino and I traded movements.  It always amazes me that even though I am still (for now!) unable to complete my kip de cabeca, I am able to teach others how to do it.  So, after a few tries, she was landing it almost perfectly. And I was still landing on my butt, though not as much as usual. I don't care, I still do it in the roda anyway.  And one day, I'm gonna get it......then I'll never stop!  We also practiced a very fun move that Dudu pulled on me during our first game together - a super playful pass under a kick that everyone will see when I get back to Brooklyn.

That's about it.  There's another street roda tonight -- gotta stretch!!

Back in Brasilia

I finally ended the solo part of my trip.  I felt a mixture of happiness and sadness for it all to end.  It was so interesting to be somewhat alone for a little more than two weeks.  Although, after about five days, I made a good friend and was hardly alone at all, except for during the days when my friend was working and I was walking the endless beach.  So, I felt a bit sad for that aspect to end.  So much of what I experienced in Bahia was like a dream or a movie -- so much was so wonderful.  In fact, everything was wonderful, and it is wonderful to have two weeks jam packed full of wonderful things. 

But returning to Brasilia means returning to other wonderful things and people and places, too.  Before I left New York for this trip, I said to a friend that it is so great to be leaving for a vacation and to not hate the place I am leaving, which means that when it is over, I won't be upset about having to come back to "real life" -- I love my real life. And I felt the same about reutrning to Brasilia....I enjoy every moment here, so I wasn't that upset about ending the solo beach adventure and re-joining Nagi and the gang here for more inland adventures. 

I spent one day in Salvador, just a few hours less than 24, because my flight was booked to leave from there.  I will definitely return to explore that city next year.  I didn't get to do much there because my ferry arrived at sunset so I went directly to my pousada, had dinner and stayed in.  The next morning I didn't have much time before my flight and it was overcast and a bit cold for the beach, so I went shopping for a dress for Jad's wedding.  No luck on the dress, but I hit a goldmine of tank tops and brazilian underwear.  Oh, and another bikini.  My bus ride to the airport went along the coast, so I got to see the amazing ocean smashing the shoreline.  Que bonita!!!

So, I am back in Brasilia and recovering from Jad's wedding, which was last night.  It was a blast. A wedding in Brazil is very much the same as a wedding in the U.S., but the music is all in Portuguese and rice is served with dinner. One difference is that there is a tradition here to have a necktie from the groom and a couple of the groomsmen circulate around the room with the tie and a pair of scissors. You get to cut a piece of the tie and keep it if you give money that will go to the lua de mel (honeymoon).  I had spent the day of the wedding and the day before with Jad helping him run errands and really got to see how happy and excited he was to get married. I'm not a big fan of weddings, and I defintely don't have big romantic notions for my own wedding, so I'm usually a bit jaded when it somes to these ceremonies (with the exception of my sister's wedding - I was thrilled for that one).  But it was so lovely to see him so happy and ready.  Parabens, Jad!!!

Today I will go to Max (aka Bahia) and Patricia's house to hang out with them and their pool.  (My tan from my beach trip is stellar and I must maintain!!)  I can't wait.  They are both such wonderful people and I'm really looking forward to hanging out with them and their family.

This week is full of good plans -- aqua mineral, flying kites in the park, early morning personal training sessions with Nagi, and lots of capoeira.

Envy is a Shit

I was shopping in Salvador and saw this printed on a black tank top in white letters: ENVY IS A SHIT.  I'm not exactly sure what it is supposed to mean, but I think it's really funny. 

But I didn't buy the tank top, though now I think I should have.

Morro, oh no no no

I thought it was important to provide an update.  And to pose a question.  First the question:  What in the hell does everyone like about Morro de Sao Paulo?  Is it the overcrowded beaches full of obnoxious tourists from all the world over?  Is it is smell of sewage wafting by with every gust of wind?  Is it the mediocre view from the beach?  Is it the leering men who live there and seem to act entitled to sleep with every moderately attractive female tourist that walks by? Is it the annoying guys at the dock who follow you, insisting that they'lll carry your bag for just 6 reals even though you only have a backpack and have explained three times that you don't need any help?  Is it the overpriced and not-so-great-tasting meals being hawked at every restaurant?  Seriously -- what is it?

I arrived there Friday afternoon with the intention of staying for five days and to finish off this solo part of my trip enjoying the wonders of Morro as described to me by practically everyeon who has ever been there.  Five minutes after I arrived, I knew I wanted to leave as soon as possible.  Granted, I was coming from paradise.  I had stayed in that paradise for five days longer than I had planned because I fell in love with it.  I developed an intense friendhsip with someone who I didn't want to leave.  And I made a bunch of other friends in the capoeira group there without ever even training once. So, the bar was set pretty high for any other place I'd visit on this trip. But based on what everyone had told me about Morro, I was sure I'd like it.  I think some places are best enjoyed alone and with little money (like my paradise) and other places are best enjoyed with a group friends and ample pocket change (Like Morro).

So, I decided I had two options: 1. Go on to Salvador  2.  Return to my paradise

Option 1. Before starting the solo part of my trip in Brazil, every person I spoke with about Salvador warned me about safety issues.  "Always keep an eye on your purse whe you are in a restaurant," "Don't go to the beach with anything if you plan to swim...someone will swipe your bag while you're in the water," "Don't trust the men there -- they are safados and will woo you and then try to take your stuff."   So, I was already wondering how I'd be relaxed in a place that sounded as or more dangerous than the Bronx in the 80s. I live in a city that requires me to constantly be on alert, paying attention to any possibility of trouble....I didn't want to go on vacation to experience the same level of looming stress.  And these warnings were not based on rumor or hearsay: Last year, someone tried the steal the camera out of my friend's hands!  This year, a capoeira mestres wallet was stolen off his person!  Add to this the fact that Salvador is, after all, a city full of tourists,  I decided that if I chose to go to Salvador, the last days of my solo vacation would require more energy and attention to my personal safety than I cared to give.

Option 2. Return to my paradise.  Return to deserted, breathtaking beaches.  Return to cheap, huge plates of shrimp and fish.  Return to the bakery that knows my breakfast order.  Return to the beachside Barraca where I get aqua de coco every day and chat with the cutie who runs it.  Return to nighttime walks on the beach and people to speak with and forro dancing and relaxation and sun and surf and waves and sand.


Now the update:  Can you guess which I chose? 

Paradise found

The mosquitos are abundant.  There is nothng to do.  The town closes from about 11:30 to about 2:30 for lunch. Yet, this, to me, is paradise.   I don't think any of you would like it here, so don't come! I'm keeping my location a secret because I don't want anyone else to know about it. If I could, I'd live here half of the year and live in NY for the other half.  (Actually, I could.....)

I'm paying for internet use here and am pinching pennies because I decided to extned my stay here by a week, which cuts into my free housing options in Salvador, so this will be short.  But here are the highlights of my daily plans:

1.  Wake up early and go to the paneria for cafe damanha (an egg sandwich with cafe com leite)
2. Put on a bikini and sunblock and go to the beach.
3. Walk for hours and hours, jumping in the ocean whenever it gets too hot.
4. Come back to town while the sun is strongest and fill up on a delicious lunch of fish or shrimp, rice, beans and salad.
5.  Lay in the hammock at my pousada after lunch and read while waiting for my belly to go back to normal size.
6.  Go back to the beach to have aqua de coco and walk in the other direction.
7.  Take the cute local capoeirista up on his offer to accompany me on my walk.
8.  Watch the sunset, play capoeira on the beach and lay in the sand.
9.  Go to the town center while the local capoeira group trains and watch through the open window and sing along with the roda.
10.  Eat a small dinner of aracaje or bread and cheese and peach juice.
11.  Learn how to dance forro Bahia-style and walk out to the end of the peir to watch the stars coat the sky after dark, then sit on the rocks that line the shore and talk with my new friends.
12. Discover that a mosquito net over a bed works perfectly.  
 13. Wonder how I'1ll ever leave.

Ahhhhh.